Without boring you with details, there has been a barrage of change in my life over the past 3 weeks, so my apologies on not updating you about wine. I’m back to it now, and shall continue on with this resolution of mine!
My lovely husband, J, took me on an amazing Valentine’s Day dinner to a restaurant called The Chancery in London. As we like to do, we ordered the tasting menu (regular for him, vegetarian for me) with the wine pairing. When I go to restaurants with nice wine lists (and tasting menus), I love getting suggestions from the sommeliers and staff. Mostly, I have never tasted the wine (or remembered), and it is interesting to see what they believe to be the best tasting. Some times, they cannot be trusted (I once asked what the difference in two very differently priced glasses of champagne were and the waiter actually said to me “don’t know, it all tastes exactly the same”. For that alone, I ordered the less expensive glass, which was very good, but who knows if the more costly one could have been better. I felt he should have tried to sell me on it regardless; make something up! I probably will trust you!).
Anyway, here was the lowdown of our meal:
An amuse bouche (which was delicious!), an almond soup to go with our champange which was an Ernest Rapeneau, Sélection N.V. Brut . I really enjoyed this champagne. It retailed for £8 a glass and with a quick google search I discovered it averages about £18 per bottle. Disregarding the restaurant mark-up, I think it’s definitely a nice bottle to have in the fridge for a special occasion. Which leads to a lovely quote by Ray Isle, executive food editor at Food and Wine, “Bottles of Champagne are like umbrellas: The day you don’t have one on you is always the day that you absolutely, positively need one.” Keeping this in mind, I now have “bubbly” on the list for every super market trip. I can’t guarantee it will always be champagne, but we’ll see how it goes!
Anyway, to the rest of the pairs! (I’ve listed the dishes as they were listed on the menu)
Course 1:
For me: Ducks egg (slow cooked ducks egg, confit king oyster mushroom, button mushroom duxelle and burnt toast veloute)
For J: Cod Cheeks (red wine glazed cod cheers and beer battered pallet with leeks, garlic mayonnaise and cornichons)
Wine Pairing: Domaine De La Mirande Picpoul De Pinet 2011 Coteaux du Languedoc which did not really go with my dish, and I didn’t really like as a wine either.
Course 2:
For me: Jersalem Artichoke Soup (walnuts, quince jam and sorrel)
For J: Foie Gras (Jerusalem artichoke soup, parfait, walnuts, quince jam and sorrel)
Wine Pairing: Theodorus Riesling Jahrgang 2008. This wine was well paired with our dish, and was well-paired with both of our dishes (as they were essentially the same). I think having the fat of the fois gras probably made the wine go even better with J’s dish than mine, but I did enjoy this wine.
Course 3:
For me: Broccoli (warm salad of purple sprouting broccoli, goats curd and almonds)
For J: Cornish lobster salad (purple sprouting broccoli, ginger, black sesame and lobster vinaigrette)
Wine Pair: Rose Del Drago 2011. Now, I tend not to like Rose because they are too sweet, but I was pleasantly surprised by this pairing because it almost worked like a nice dressing to a salad, if that makes sense?, where it complimented the dish with a new flavor that it was almost “missing”. Not that the dish was incomplete, because it wasn’t, but it gave it that extra something.
Course 4:
For me: Clay Baked Jerusalem artichoke (smoked Jerusalem artichoke, burnt lettuce, glazed radishes)
For J: Suffolk Venison (glazed beetroot tart fine, salt baked Cheltenham beetroot, juniper and bitter chocolate)
Wine Pair: Steenburg Merlot 2009 Which I image went with the meat dish MUCH better than with my artichoke. That said, this artichoke was my favorite dish despite the fact the wine was much too heavy for it.
Course 5:
For us both: blood orange cheesecake (brillat savarin cheesecake with blood orange, pomegranate, and Turkish Delight ice cream).
Wine Pair: Chateau Dereszla 2006 Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos. A Hungarian wine, which turned out to be my favorite of the night. It was a delightful surprise which complemented the cheesecake beautifully. Altogether this pairing and dish was my overall favorite. It was beautifully done, and I don’t like turkish delight and I am not usually cheesecake’s biggest fan either. I could have eaten and drank this all day. Because of that, here’s a lowdown on the wine:
According to wine-searcher.com “Tokaj is one of the most famous wine villages in the world. It is the home of the botrytized dessert wine which bears its name, the yard stick against which so many of the world’s sweet wines are measured. The Tokaj region and its wine are held in such esteem in Hungary (and around the wine world) that the Hungarian national anthem thanks God that‘Tokaj szőlővesszein nektárt csepegtettél.’ (‘In the vineyards of Tokaj you dripped sweet nectar.’)”. I LOVE THIS PIECE OF INFORMATION.
Course 6:
For us both: Baked Pear (slow baked pear with chestnut financier and beurre noisette ice cream)
Wine Pair: Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Late Harvest South Africa. This wine was also delicious, and this dish was clever. It didn’t beat the cheesecake, but it was a lovely wine to finish the meal with, not too sweet, but again, gave the dessert that extra oomph (like a drizzle of a sauce or something).
We ended with some cappuccinos and a piece of fudge (I also like to order coffee at the end of my meal because the chef almost always sends out some petit fours, and I love the surprise of what it is. Also, the coffee here was yummy.
Overall: The Chancery is a 3 Rosette restaurant on a lovely street in London. Because it is not yet Michelin-starred, the prices are incredibly reasonable for the tasting menu (6 courses for £48.50) and when you add the flight of wines to match it is £70 per person. Because this blog is about wine, not restaurant reviews, I will not be giving my full opinion other than to say that the food here was worth every single penny. The food was well-rounded, surprising, delicious, well-presented, clever, and well-priced. I tip my hat to head chef Simon Christey-French. Well done, sir!
A small side note to restaurants from a food and drink loving vegetarian: Most restaurants pair their wines to match their tasting menu, which is always for carnivores. While I love doing wine pairings even though I know that most of my vegetarian dishes will not match with the wine chosen for my meat-eating partner, I do appreciate a sommelier that takes the time to find wine to go with my dishes as well (so I would receive I different wine to the carnivore in the circumstances our dishes are different). I would like to give props to the restaurant Texture for doing that, giving my meal there a consistent ranking in my Top 3 meals of my life (and as cliche as it may be, this ranks them with the other 2 in my Top 3, Noma and Per Se).
Mostly though, food and wine pairing is a magical science that I really hope to become good at eventually!